Beach water table fluctuations due to wave run-up: Capillarity effects

Comment on "Beach Water Table Fluctuations Due to Wave Run-Up: Capillarity Effects" by L. Li et al

Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequ...

Resonant Long-Wave Run-Up On A Plane Beach

Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. I...

Numerical modeling of wave propagation, breaking and run-up on a beach

A numerical method for free-surface flow is presented at the aim of studying water waves in coastal areas. The method builds on the nonlinear shallow water equations and utilizes a non-hydrostatic pressure term to describe short waves. A vertical boundary-fitted grid is used with the water depth divided into a number of layers. A compact finite difference scheme is employed that takes into acco...

Detecting nonlinearity in run-up on a natural beach

Natural geophysical timeseries bear the signature of a number of complex, possibly inseparable, and generally unknown combination of linear, stable non-linear and chaotic processes. Quantifying the relative contribution of, in particular, the non-linear components will allow improved modelling and prediction of natural systems, or at least define some limitations on predictability. However, dif...